Tracks
Voy a trabajar las orugas, un elemento muy peculiar de los
tanques y que en wargames suele pintarse de gun metal y no aplicar nada más.
Como ya expliqué durante el pintado general, las orugas es
la parte del tanque que antes se oxida, se ensucian en exceso y tiene un mayor
mantenimiento; por ello la mayoría de tanques llevan eslabones suplementarios en
sus cuerpos, no para su protección, sino para el recambio (aunque ya que los
tienen, son una muy buena protección adicional).
I'm going to work the tracks, a very peculiar
element of the tanks and that in wargames is usually painted gun metal and not
apply anything else.
As I explained during the general painting, the tracks are the part of the tank that used to oxidize, get dirty in excess and have a greater maintenance; therefore, most tanks carry additional links in their bodies, not for their protection, but for replacement (although since they have them, they are a very good additional protection).
As I explained during the general painting, the tracks are the part of the tank that used to oxidize, get dirty in excess and have a greater maintenance; therefore, most tanks carry additional links in their bodies, not for their protection, but for replacement (although since they have them, they are a very good additional protection).
Oxidación / Oxidation
La oxidación de las orugas es muy peculiar. Tenemos que
tener muy en cuenta que están constantemente tocando agua, tanto de charcos desde
otoño a primavera, y pasando ríos y riachuelos.
Pero al estar en constante movimiento y rozando con piedras
y con los mismos elementos de tracción de los bogíes, esta oxidación es casi
imperceptible.
Lo primero que he realizado es aplicar sobre el color base
de las oruga que ya se realizó en la 2ª
parte, el wash para orugas de Ak
Interactive (AK-083).
The oxidation of the tracks is very peculiar. We
have to bear in mind that they are constantly touching water, from puddles from
autumn to spring, and passing rivers and streams.
But being in constant movement and rubbing with stones and with the same traction elements of the bogies, this oxidation is almost imperceptible.
The first thing I have done is to apply the base color of the tracks that was already made in the second part, the wash for crawlers of Ak Interactive (AK-083).
But being in constant movement and rubbing with stones and with the same traction elements of the bogies, this oxidation is almost imperceptible.
The first thing I have done is to apply the base color of the tracks that was already made in the second part, the wash for crawlers of Ak Interactive (AK-083).
Este wash lo he aplicado de forma alegre, sin miramientos,
por lo que realmente ha sido aplicar un filtro, que ha oscurecido ligeramente
el color base y, en especial, los recovecos de las orugas. Esto más tarde, cuando
aplique el barro seco en las cadenas, nos permitirá tener ligeros matices.
I have applied this wash happily, without regard,
for what it has really been to apply a filter, which has slightly darkened the
base color and, especially, the nooks and crannies of the trucks. This later,
when I apply the dry mud in the chains, it will allow us to have slight nuances.
Como se puede observar, al aplicar el color base más este
wash, hemos obtenido un efecto de óxido antiguo, muy característico de las
orugas.
As you can see, when applying the base color plus
this wash, we have obtained an old oxide effect, very characteristic of the tracks.
Barro seco / Dry mud
La forma de aplicar el barro seco que existe entre los
eslabones de las orugas, realizaré la misma técnica que para la suciedad
acumulada.
Para ello debo esperar a que el wash aplicado antes esté
bien seco, ya que este barro lo realizaré con diluyente, y podría llevarme el
trabajo al aplicarlo.
Una buena opción, que no he realizado, es aplicar un barniz acrílico
mate sobre el wash, para evitar justamente eso.
Para imitar el barrillo seco entre eslabones, he utilizado
el pigmento Tierra Europea de AK Intreractive (AK-042), por el color que deseo
obtener, un tono claro.
A este pigmento aplico diluyente Titán. Si aplico agua, en
el siguiente proceso eliminaré más pigmento del que me gustaría. Y si utilizo
fijador, tendría que hacer un trabajo demasiado concienzudo, por lo que no
quedaría bien.
The way to apply the dry mud that exists between
the links of the trucks, I will perform the same technique as for accumulated
dirt.
For this I must wait for the wash applied before it is well dried, since this mud will be made with thinner, and could take me the work when applying it.
A good option, which I have not done, is to apply a matt acrylic varnish on the wash, to avoid just that.
To imitate the dry bar between links, I used the pigment European Earth of AK Intreractive (AK-042), for the color I want to obtain, a clear tone.
To this pigment I apply titan diluent. If I apply water, in the next process I will remove more pigment than I would like. And if I use fixer, I would have to do a job too conscientious, so it would not look good.
For this I must wait for the wash applied before it is well dried, since this mud will be made with thinner, and could take me the work when applying it.
A good option, which I have not done, is to apply a matt acrylic varnish on the wash, to avoid just that.
To imitate the dry bar between links, I used the pigment European Earth of AK Intreractive (AK-042), for the color I want to obtain, a clear tone.
To this pigment I apply titan diluent. If I apply water, in the next process I will remove more pigment than I would like. And if I use fixer, I would have to do a job too conscientious, so it would not look good.
Aplicar el barrillo resultante en más sencillo que en el
proceso de “suciedad acumulada”, ya que he “pintado” todas las orugas.
Apply the resulting barrel in simpler than in the
process of "accumulated dirt", since I have "painted" all
the tracks.
Si nos pasamos o ponemos en exceso, no importa mucho, ya que
lo eliminaremos posteriormente.
Debemos esperar a que esté completamente seco. Si cuando le
hemos aplicado el diluyente, el pigmento se ha oscurecido, al secarse el
pigmento ha quedado del color original.
If we spend or put in excess, it does not matter
much, since we will eliminate it later.
We must wait until it is completely dry. If when we have applied the diluent, the pigment has darkened, the pigment has remained the original color when dried.
We must wait until it is completely dry. If when we have applied the diluent, the pigment has darkened, the pigment has remained the original color when dried.
Ahora solo falta eliminar el exceso mediante un bastoncito
con algodón y frotar para eliminar todo el pigmento y dejar sólo en los
recovecos de las orugas.
Now all you have to do is remove the excess with a
cotton swab and rub it to remove all the pigment and leave it only in the nooks
and crannies of the tracks.
Una vez tenemos el pigmento sólo en los recovecos de las
orugas, he procedido a fijar el pigmento. Para ello he usado el Fijador de
Pigmentos de Vallejo (Auxiliar 233).
Debemos agitarlo bien, pero esto nos comporta que nos hace
algo de espuma. Para poder trabajar sin problemas, he depositado una cantidad
no muy grande en el pocillo de una paleta de pintura.
Once we have the pigment only in the recesses of
the tracks, I proceeded to fix the pigment. For this I have used the Pigment
Fixer of Vallejo (Auxiliary 233).
We should shake it well, but this means that it gives us some bubbles. In order to work without problems, I have deposited a not very large amount in the well of a paint palette.
We should shake it well, but this means that it gives us some bubbles. In order to work without problems, I have deposited a not very large amount in the well of a paint palette.
Aplico este fijador por capilaridad, sin frotar, para no
llevarnos el pigmento.
Aunque el producto es blanquinoso en el bote, al aplicarlo
ya es transparente.
Aprovecho este paso para aplicar también el fijador a los
pigmentos depositados en el proceso de “suciedad acumulada”.
I apply this fixative by capillarity, without
rubbing, so as not to take away the pigment.
Although the product is white in the bottle, it is already transparent when applied.
I take this step to also apply the fixative to the pigments deposited in the process of "accumulated dirt".
Although the product is white in the bottle, it is already transparent when applied.
I take this step to also apply the fixative to the pigments deposited in the process of "accumulated dirt".
Una vez seco el fijador, que no es precisamente rápido, el
resultado es justo el que buscaba.
Once the fixative is dry, which is not exactly
fast, the result is just what I was looking for.
Ahora ya podemos tocar el tanque sin miedo a que desaparezcan
los pigmentos.
Now we can touch the tank without fear of the
disappearance of the pigments.
Metal al
descubierto / Metal exposed
Como indicaba, la peculiaridad de las orugas nos obliga a hacer
un tratamiento un tanto especial.
Si bien el agua y el barro del camino oxida y embarra las orugas
constantemente, el rozamiento de esta con los bogíes y con las ruedas de
arrastre hacen que el metal esté al descubierto y limpio de óxido y barro, confiriéndole
un tono de metal brillante ligeramente oscuro.
Para ello no he realizado un pincel seco, ya que el
resultado no se aproxima ni por asomo al tono metal oscuro real, por lo que
opto por hacerlo con grafito. El grafito es lo que lleva las minas de los
lápices.
En mi caso utilizo el resto de una barra de grafito, que
saco punto como si fuese un lápiz.
As indicated, the peculiarity of the tracks forces
us to make a somewhat special treatment.
Although the water and mud of the road oxidizes and muds the tracks constantly, the friction of this with the bogies and with the trailing wheels make the metal is exposed and clean of rust and mud, giving it a slightly shiny metal tone Dark.
For this I have not done a dry brush, since the result is not even close to the real dark metal tone, so I choose to do it with graphite. Graphite is what leads pencil mines.
In my case I use the rest of a graphite bar, which I draw as if it were a pencil.
Although the water and mud of the road oxidizes and muds the tracks constantly, the friction of this with the bogies and with the trailing wheels make the metal is exposed and clean of rust and mud, giving it a slightly shiny metal tone Dark.
For this I have not done a dry brush, since the result is not even close to the real dark metal tone, so I choose to do it with graphite. Graphite is what leads pencil mines.
In my case I use the rest of a graphite bar, which I draw as if it were a pencil.
Como es un trozo pequeño, lo he montado en un porta lápices,
que es para cuando tenemos lápices de dibujo demasiado pequeños y nos permite
seguir dibujando con ellos hasta el final.
Esta barra de grafito la podemos adquirir en tiendas de
bellas artes.
Pero si no queremos adquirir una barra de estas (que no son
caras) porque tenemos un lápiz del 4-B o superior, también pueden servir, pero
deberemos frotar mucho más
Froto la barra de grafito en las partes que suelen quedar
con el metal al descubierto. Para ello mejor nos documentamos con fotos reales
en color.
He optado por las guías de los eslabones (esas piezas que
sobresalen en el interior) y los bordes de las orugas.
As it is a small piece, I have mounted it in a
pencil holder, which is for when we have pencils too small drawing and allows
us to continue drawing with them to the end.
We can buy this graphite bar in fine arts stores.
But if we do not want to acquire a bar of these (which are not expensive) because we have a pencil of 4-B or higher, they can also serve, but we will have to rub much more
I rub the graphite bar on the parts that usually have the metal exposed. For this we better document with real color photos.
I have opted for the guides of the links (those pieces that protrude inside) and the edges of the tracks.
We can buy this graphite bar in fine arts stores.
But if we do not want to acquire a bar of these (which are not expensive) because we have a pencil of 4-B or higher, they can also serve, but we will have to rub much more
I rub the graphite bar on the parts that usually have the metal exposed. For this we better document with real color photos.
I have opted for the guides of the links (those pieces that protrude inside) and the edges of the tracks.
Como se puede ver, el efecto de metal bruñido es perfecto.
As you can see, the burnished metal effect is
perfect.
Debemos tener cuidado con las diferentes formas que tienen
las orugas.
Hay algunas que llevan tacos de caucho (las que tienen un
acabado rectangular, y otras que tienen una pieza de metal para agarrarse
perfectamente a todo tipo de terreno. Este saliente se le debe aplicar el
grafito, ya que es la pieza con más fricción y desgaste de todo el tanque.
We must be careful with the different forms that
the tracks have.
There are some that have rubber plugs (those with a rectangular finish, and others that have a piece of metal to hold perfectly to all types of terrain.) This protrusion should be applied graphite, since it is the piece with more friction and wear of the entire tank.
There are some that have rubber plugs (those with a rectangular finish, and others that have a piece of metal to hold perfectly to all types of terrain.) This protrusion should be applied graphite, since it is the piece with more friction and wear of the entire tank.
El resultado debe ser más o menos el siguiente.
The result should be more or less the
following.
Los tanques ya los tenemos más que listos para poder jugar.
Aunque yo he optado por aplicar salpicaduras y barro
adicional, que ya lo veremos en la siguiente entrega.
De momento los tanques ya están así.
The tanks and we have more than ready to play.
Although I have chosen to apply splashes and additional mud, which we will see in the next installment.
At the moment the tanks are already like that.
Although I have chosen to apply splashes and additional mud, which we will see in the next installment.
At the moment the tanks are already like that.
Para seguir el trabajo, ver:
To continue the work, see:
- Parte 3ª - Pintado
de Tanquistas/Painting of Tankers.
- Parte 4ª - Calcomanías/Decal.
-
Parte 5ª - Perfilados/Profiled.
-
Parte 6ª - Desconchones/scratches.
-
Parte 7ª - Aguadas/Watery.
-
Parte 8ª - Suciedad
Acumulada/Accumulated Dirt.
-
Parte 9ª - Aceite,
Combustible y Grasa/Oil, fuel and grease
-
Parte 10ª - Orugas/Tracks
-
Parte 11ª - Barro/Mud
- Parte 12ª – Anteans
y Final/Antennas & end
Salva Rosselló
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